I am jet lagged but still able to reflect on the past two weeks favorite experience. Walking and watching the city wake up.
Leaving the building close to sunrise, I am greeted by a few cats startled at the sound of my steps wondering if I am a threat or just a safe walker.
I start my descent and pass by the neighborhood baker warming up his oven and spreading his dough with his special zaatar (thyme) mix.
I continue my walk going a few meters uphill then down again. A security guard (the same one) is sipping his first turkish coffee of the day with a full rakweh (coffee pot) next to him.
Shuffling songs is always fun as the music gets as eclectic as my observations: from Camille to Pete Murray to the Cat Empire... now it's Stael's "Le temps de dire Ouf".http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z293fEIUhuw.
I walk by a corner shop where bags of fresh bread are already delivered, sitting on racks waiting for the shop to open.
The wind starts blowing harder: I am getting closer to the beach and it's just ten minutes into my walk. I run into a woman, the same woman, same spot, same time. I smile at her, she never smiles back.
At the end of the hill, I turn left and smile again but now to the beautiful view of the sea through a few palm trees a few more meters away. Beautiful, breathtaking sunrise!
In these last steps, Sukleen workers (garbage company) are picking cigarette buds left behind from the night before. It's the same dutie those poor workers have day after day, as just a few people respect the keep your city clean signs.
The blue of the Mediterranean is stunning! It's a palette of blues that is extremely hard to describe. All I can say is that it blends amazingly well with the beautiful one tone of blue sky.
picture taken at a later time in the day
Amateur fishermen are lined along the rocks just beneath the corniche . They're casting their long fishing rods and waiting patiently for a few fish to clean on the spot and take home for the day.
I see professional fishermen coming back already with their early morning catch, some of them emptying their nets and some their wire baskets. I have always wondered why fish is so expensive in this country although it is so abundant. My eyes are fixated on the movement of the waves. Just amazing and never the same.The corniche is crowded with people jogging, walking, roller skating and a few biking. Today happens to be very windy, it helps dry humidity in the air.
Half way through the corniche, the same begger is sitting on the mosaic bench, same bench, same begger I have seen summer after summer.
My corniche walk ends close to the old lighthouse. I cross the street and start going uphill almost all the way back home, passing streets getting busier as the time is closer to work hours. Newspaper stands are open already and taxi drivers are honking obnoxiously to get the attention of a potential customer here and there. The city is suddenly extremely noisy and the smell of car exhausts starts building up in the air.
I walk by my favorite baker and the air is filled with the amazing manakeesh (thyme bread) aroma. Some days, I stop and buy a few to enjoy with my family in my mom's salon de the (her breakfast area).
That is the Beirut I watch waking up.
I am all energized and ready to start my day. It's just 7.15 am and I can taste the salt that the sea wind left on my lips.
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